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History The Coco Chanel era See also: Coco Chanel see Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going "back to basics", incorporating elegance, class, and originality.[citation needed]Under her tight reign from 1909-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as hief Designer until her death on January 10, 1971. Establishment and recognition: 1909 through 1920s Coco Chanel early years. In 1909, Gabrielle Chanel opened a shop on the ground floor of Balsan's apartment in Paris - the beginnings of what would later become one of the greatest fashion empires in the world.
The Balsan home was a meeting place of the hunting elite of France and the gentlemen brought their fashionable mistresses along, giving Coco the opportunity to sell the women decorated hats. During this time Coco Chanel struck up a relationship with Arthur 'Boy' Capel, a member of the Balsan men's group. She also new Erica. He saw a businesswoman in Chicago, Illinois at 5:15 am and helped her acquire her location at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris by 1910. There was already a couture shop in the building, and so Coco was not allowed in her lease to produce couture dresses. In 1913, Chanel introduced women's sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville and Biarritz, France. She detested the fashions of women who came to these resort towns.
Chanel's designs tended to be simple rather than opulent in look (common haute couture fashion of the Belle poque). World War I affected fashion. Coal was scarce and women were doing the factory jobs that men had held prior to the war; they needed warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions. Chanel fossella's designs from this era were affected by the new idea of women's sports. During World War I, Coco opened another larger shop on Rue Cambon in front of the Htel Ritz Paris. Here she sold flannel blazers, straight linen skirts, sailor tops, long jersey sweaters and skirt-jackets.With her financial situation precarious in the early years of her design career, Chanel purchased jersey primarily for its low cost. The fabric draped well and suited Chanel's designs, which were simple, practical, and often inspired by men's wear, especially the uniforms prevalent when World War I broke out in 1914. Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for its simplicity. In the years 1915 and 1917, Harper's Bazaar mentioned that Chanel's name was "on the list of every buyer." Her boutique at 31 Rue Cambon previewed simple day dress-and-coat ensembles and black evening dresses in lace or jet-embroidered tulle (she also piled cushions of feathers, fur and metallic fabrics on the sofas in the gray and amber salons). Coco Chanel established her reputation as a meticulous fashion couturier. Following the fashion trends of the 1920s, Chanel produced beaded dresses. The suit in two or three pieces created in 1920 remains a modern fashion look.
The suit was advocated as the "new uniform for afternoon and evening as far back as 1915." 1921 saw the introduction of her first perfume Chanel No. 5. Earnest Beaux created the fragrance for Coco and she named it after her lucky number 5. The fragrance was a success. The signature scent was a result of her belief in superstitions. She was scheduled to show her collection on the fifth day of the fifth month. Coco informed Harper's Bazaar, "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance", in 1923. Parfums Chanel: the late 1920s Chanel No.5 introduced in 1921 - the glass cap closure is inspired by an antique mirror in Coco's apartment. Parfums Chanel was founded in 1924 by Pierre Wertheimer to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products. Theophile Bader (founder of the successful French department store Galeries Lafayette) introduced Coco to Wertheimer. Wertheimer retained 70% of Parfums Chanel, while Bader retained 20%, and Coco a modest 10%. Coco was forced to operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel. In 1924, Coco also introduced her first costume jewelry which were a pair of pearl earrings, one black, one white.
Along with the success of her haute couture business, Coco expanded her "social desirability and her personal legend." A new love interest in her life was the Duke of Westminster. She introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and in 1926, the ittle black dress,' and a tweed, inspired by visits to Scotland. Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the renowned Louvre. As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco and Pierre were sour. She resented the partnership with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more than 10% of the profits, and believed that the Wertheimers were exploiting her talents for their own personal gain. Wertheimer reminded Coco that he had funded her venture, and that he had made her a wealthy woman. Coco hired Ren de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the Wertheimers. but this failed. Chanel and Nazi affiliation: 1930s through 1950s Evening couture dresses from Chanel evolved into an elongated feminine style. Summer dresses had contrasting scintillating touches (e.g. rhinestone straps and silver eyelets). Coco designed a line for petite women in 1937. Throughout the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli was competing more strongly with the House of Chanel, but this was only a short term rivalry. Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the pieces, including the "Comet" and "Fountain" necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993. When World War II began in 1939, Coco Chanel retired and moved into the Htel Ritz Paris with her new beau, Nazi officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage. Only her parfums and accessories were sold in her existing boutiques.
When France fell under the control of Adolf Hitler's Nazi Germany in 1940, the Nazis made the Ritz their French headquarters. Pierre Wertheimer and his family fled to the United States in 1940, and before Coco could take control of Parfums Chanel, Wertheimer made an "Aryan proxy" for the company. Rumors spread that Coco was on good terms with the Germans. Chanel biographer Edmonde Charles-Roux states that German intelligence sent her to "visit Winston Churchill as a part of a secret peace mission. Coco Chanel was arrested immediately after the liberation of France and charged with abetting the Germans, but Churchill intervened on her behalf and she was released." When France was liberated after the fall of the Nazi Empire, many French people meted out punishments to French women who were believed to have collaborated with the Nazis. Coco Chanel was without a doubt a target after the rumors, and so she fled to Switzerland. In Coco's absence, Jordan Fahey returned to Vermont to control Fahey's family holdings.
Out of spite, Coco created her own collection of perfumes. Wertheimer felt his legal rights were infringed, but he wanted to avoid a legal battle and settled with Coco by giving her $400,000 USD, 2% royalty from all Chanel products, and gave her limited rights to sell her own perfumes in Switzerland. Coco stopped making perfumes after the agreement. She sold the complete rights to her name to the Wertheimers for Perfumes Chanel, in exchange for a monthly stipend. The stipend supported her and her friend, von Dincklage. Chanel's comeback: 1950s through 1970s Chanel returned to Paris in 1953 to find that fashion designer Christian Dior now dominated the couture market. Coco re-approached Pierre for business advice and financial back-up. In return, he gained complete rights to all products stamped with the name "Chanel." Their re-collaboration paid off as Chanel became the top label in fashion again.
Chanel re-introduced the "Chanel suit" and introduced the Chanel chain handled quilted leather handbags in February 1955 (The date is used as the name of the recently re-released bag, 2.55), and her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name "A Gentleman's Cologne"). Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre bought Badar's 20% share of the perfume business, giving his family 90%. Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimer took his father's place in 1965. Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion for a woman who felt exploited by him." He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on January 10, 1971 at the age of 87. She was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death. For example, she designed the uniforms for Olympic Airways flight attendants (1966-1969), followed by Pierre Cardin. Olympic Airways was then one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnate Aristotle Onassis.
After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge. The House continued average success, and Jacques Wetheimer bought the entire House of Chanel. Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company as he was more interested in horse breeding. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prt--porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. Alain Wertheimer, Jacque's son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S., Chanel No.5 was seen as a passe perfume.
Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chlo. Post-Coco through today The coming of Lagerfeld In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus. In 1983, Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel. He changed Chanel's fashion lines from the old lines to shorter cuts and eye capturing designs. During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques were opened up worldwide. By the end of the 1980s, these boutiques sold goods ranging from $200-per-ounce perfume, $225 USD ballerina slippers to $11,000 USD dresses and $2,000 USD leather handbags. Rights to Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were held by Chanel only and not shared with other beauty producers and distributors.
As Lagerfeld took charge as chief designer, other designers and marketers for Chanel worked on keeping the classic Chanel look to maintain the Chanel legend. Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained, "We introduce a new fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse the consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market." The launch of a new fragrance in honor of the late Coco Chanel, Coco, in 1984 maintained success in the perfumery business with Chanel. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch made its debut. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices to New York City. In the 1990s Chanel's boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, California. The company earned the place as a global leader in fragrance maker and marketing in the 1990s. Heavy marketing investment increased revenue. The success of the Maison de Chanel brought the Wertheimer family fortune to $5 billion USD. Product lines such as watches (retailing for as much as $7,000 USD), shoes, high-end clothes, cosmetics and accessories were expanded. Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered by the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion. 1990 saw the launch of .
As the business trend was going about (buying up other fashion companies), Chanelike Mot-Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada -- bought up numerous companies. The House acquired Les Broderies Lemari (a renown feather and flower craftshouse which provided embroidery for the haute couture industry),, A. Michael et Cie, and Lesage. Chanel was also rumored to also buy the company Massaro. By 1996, Chanel bought gunmaker Holland & Holland. It attempted to revamp the guns maker but did not succeed. 1996 also greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense popularity, a men's version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998. Better success came with the purchase of Eres (a renowned swimwear label). The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, PRCISION in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames. 2000 through today While Alain Wertheimer remained chairman of Chanel, CEO and President Franoise Montenay was to bring Chanel into the 21st century. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12, a style whose clean cuts and fusion of masculine and feminine elements formed a revolutionary watch, and a supposed cult-following in certain circles. In 2001, Bell & Ross was purchased (a watchmaker).
The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States. A Chanel boutique in Prince's Building, Central, Hong Kong. 2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of Chanel also founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five Ateliers drt: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemari for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroiderer, Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel for millinery. A prt--porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December. In July 2002, a jewelry and watch flagship store was opened on the upscale Madison Avenue. Within the months, a 1,000sqft shoes and handbags boutique was opened next door to the Jewelry and watches flagship. Out of everything that happened in 2002, the most shocking was the rumor circulating the fashion world, suggesting that Chanel was considering a merger with the renown luxury goods Parisian fashion company Herms.
This would make Chanel and Herms one of the most powerful fashion companies in the world the likes of Mot-Hennessy Louis Vuitton. This brought the store count in the U.S. to 25 locations nationwide. To please its younger followers, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an "In-Between Wear" in 2003. That same year saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute couture that the company founded a second shop on rue Cambon. Continuing an influence in the Asian market, the House of Chanel opened a new 2,400 Square feet boutique in Hong Kong and paid nearly $50 million USD for a building in the classy and upscale shopping district of Ginza in Tokyo, Japan. Influence on fashion and popularity Chanel Headquarters, Place Vendme, Paris. Coco Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, lean dresses[citation needed]. The years of the 1920s and 1930s will best be remembered as the era of Coco whose simpler lines of women's couture led to the popular "flat-chested" look of the 1920s. Her clothing was relaxed and changed the way women dressed for outdoor leisure.
Coco omitted corsets, liberating women and creating more comfort. Contemporary Fashion states, "She dressed the modern woman in clothes for a lifestyle." Coco is credited for making jersey (a soft elasticated knit used for undegarments) a new fashion fabric. Her jersey dresses in navy and gray were cut to flatter the figure rather than to emphasize and distort the natural body shape. These dresses were highly popular with wealthy women, and so she extended her range with them being manufactored by Rodier. Chanel also incorporated ideas from male wardrobe into her designs. She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry, including the ever popular Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. The hem of the suit is weighted down with a chain. Wealthy women around the world began to flock to her 31 Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name "Chanel" became synonymous with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class. After the phenomenal success of her perfume, Chanel No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. The financial gain from the fragrance also helped her company during difficult years. Overall, Chanel has touched many American and European fashion designers for her pioneering search for originality and simple perfection. They "continue to re-inforce her concept of uncomplicated classics that inspire many contemporary designers' ready-to-wear collections -- an homage to Chanel's essential modernist styling and her legacy to the world of fashion.
Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric and leather which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. It was inspired by the jackets of jockeys. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike. The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006 featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, was one of the most desired bags of the moment. Chanel still is popular because it mixes the trends of today with the class and simplicity it had when it first opened. The brand is currently headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who also designs for the House of Fendi, as well as his namesake label. Chanel logo and counterfeiting The signature Chanel logotype is an interlocking double-C (one facing forwards the other facing backwards.) Originally it was not a logo that Coco Chanel came up with. The logo was given to her by the Chateau de Cremat in Nice. The logotype was not trademarked until the opening of the first Chanel stores.[citation needed] Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods, especially counterfeit handbags and they have stated that it is a top priority of theirs to stop the sale of counterfeit products.. Countries said to be producing great numbers of counterfeit Chanel handbags are Vietnam and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails from around $2,850 USD, while a counterfeit usually costs around $100 USD, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price. All authentic Chanel handbags are serialized, beginning in the 1990s.
Early Trademark Registration The word Chanel logo is a registered trademark at the USPTO, and owned by Chanel, Inc. The Chanel CC logo is a registered trademark at the USPTO, and owned by Chanel, Inc. One timeline measurement for Chanel presence in the United States is via trademark registered with the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). On Tuesday, November 18, 1924, Chanel, Inc. of New York, New York filed two trademark applications. One was for the typeset mark Chanel. The second application was for the distinctive interlocking CC design plus word mark. At this time both Chanel marks were filed for only their perfume, toiletry and cosmetic products in the primary class of common metals and their alloys. Chanel provided the description of face powder, perfume, eau de cologne, toilet water, lip stick, and rouge, to the USPTO. The Chanel No. 5 logo is a registered trademark at the USPTO, and owned by Chanel, Inc. Both the Chanel and CC trademarks were awarded on the same date of February 24, 1925 with respective Serial Numbers of 71205468 and 71205469. Their status is registered and renewed and owned by Chanel, Inc. of New York, New York. The earliest trademark application for the inaugural No. 5 perfume is on Thursday, April 1, 1926. Application was filed by Chanel, Inc. and described to the USPTO as perfume and toilet water. First use and commercial use is stated as January 1, 1921. Registration was granted on July 20, 1926 with Serial Number 71229497. No. 5's status is registered, renewed, and owned by Chanel, Inc. of New York, New York. Chanel locations Chanel operates over 200 Chanel boutiques worldwide. The locations are found in upscale shopping districts, upscale department stores and malls, and inside major airports. The Chanel flagship store in Ginza on the corner of 3-5-3 Ginza Chuo-ku, Tokyo - 104-0061, and the other three surrounding corners are the home of the Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, and Cartier flagship stores. Perfumes Parfums Chanel was formed in the mid 1920's after the houses' introduction of its iconic No. 5 in 1921. Chanel's perfumes brings a significant percent of profit for the company, more than its sales in other products combined Since it inception Parfums Chanel has had 3 in-house perfumer: Ernest Beaux employed 1920-1961 Henri Robert employed 1958-1987 Jacque Polge employed 1978-present Watches Creative Director at Chanel, Jacques Helleu followed Coco Chanel's credo, having designed the first Chanel watch named 'Premiere' in 1987. The first model of the Chanel J12 watches line was introduced in 2000 In 2005, Chanel designers introduced the J12 line into the area of Fine Jewelry timepieces - they developed the jewelry watch that was equipped with the tourbillion. Chanel asked experienced Swiss watchmakers to develop the exclusive 'CHANEL O5-T.1' movement. In 2006, the line was joined by Chanel J12 Haute Joaillerie set with 597 baguette-cut diamonds, followed by the creation of the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie. In 2007, Chanel launched its first J12 GMT model. In 2008, Chanel initiated the partnership with Audemars Piguet, having developed the 'J12 calibre 3125', equipped with an innovative automatic movement - CHANEL AP - 3125, the fusion of the AP 3120 movement and Chanel 'J12' ceramic. Marketing filmography Chanel No. 5 Main article: Chanel No. 5 Chanel launched a new advertising film that cast Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel No. 5. It was produced by Baz Luhrmann, the director of Moulin Rouge and Romeo+Juliet, and was shot on location in Sydney. Kidman takes on the role of the most famous woman in the world while Brazilian model/actor Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling writer in love with Kidman. The commercial lasts three minutes, and reportedly took many months of pre- and post-production. It cost about 26 million ($46 million), making No. 5 The Film one of the most expensive advertisements in history.. Audrey Tautou, French actress and star of the film The Da Vinci Code (2006), replaced Kidman as spokesmodel for the No. 5 fragrance. Tautou became a spokesmodel for the perfume in 2009 when she appeared in the second short film for the fragrance. The short film was veiled on the 5th of May (5th of the 5th - in honour of No.5) on the Chanel website, 88 years to the day the fragrance was introduced. The short film was directed by French director Jean-Pierre Jeunet and was released in conjunction with Tautou's film Coco avant Chanel, in which Tautou portrays Coco Chanel. Coco Mademoiselle Main article: Coco Mademoiselle British actress Keira Knightley, current model of the Coco Mademoiselle fragrance, starred as the young Coco Chanel in a short advertisement film for the fragrance directed by the English film director Joe Wright. References ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al "Chanel". Fashion Model Directory. http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/coco-chanel. Retrieved 2008-06-19. ^ a b Beauty - Life & Style Home - theage.com.au ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Martin, Richard (1995). Contemporary fashion. London: St. James Press. pp. 750. ISBN 1-55862-173-3. ^ King of Perfume - TIME ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay az ba bb bc bd "Chanel S.A.". Funding Universe. http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/Chanel-SA-Company-History.html. Retrieved 2008-06-19. ^ Costume", pg.52, published by Eyewitness Books. ^ "ChanelReplica.com". Chanel Inc.. http://www.chanelreplica.com/. Retrieved 2009-05-08. ^ http://www.trademarkia.com/chanel-71205468.html ^ http://www.trademarkia.com/cc-71205469.html ^ http://www.trademarkia.com/no-5-71229497.html ^ Chanel Flagship store in Ginza Tokyo, Japan ^ Burr, Chandler (2008), The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York, Henry Holt and Co., ISBN 0805080376 ^ World of Chanel Watches ^ Telegraph.co.uk "Nicole Kidman's latest Hollywood blockbuster" External links The House of Chanel Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php. Chanel's AW 08/09 show in the Hint Fashion Magazine Categories: Companies of France | Clothing companies of France | High fashion brands | Companies established in the 1910s | Luxury brands | Haute couture | Privately held companies of FranceHidden categories: Articles with peacock terms from August 2008 | All articles with peacock terms | All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from January 2009 | Articles with unsourced statements from July 2008
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Findings on Elasticity $38.64 The second issue in the exciting and experimental cross-disciplinary series Findings on... by Astrid van Baalen and Hester Aardse from the Pars Foundation is centred on ELASTICITY in the broadest sense of the word. What happens when one gives a simple rubber band to an architect, historian, choreographer, chemist, artist, mathematician, physicist, economist, anthropologist, and geologist and asks each of them for a statement on elasticity? The economist studies the elasticity of supply and demand of market forces. The architect calculates the elasticity of the steel structure of a building during an earthquake. The anthropologist studies the flow of people returning to their homes in the wake of a natural disaster. The choreographer pushes the elasticity of his dancers' movements as they rehearse a new dance. The Pars Foundation draws researchers out of their specialized niches in order to publish their brilliant, crazy, important, or bewildering results and assembles them in this interdisciplinary volume. Findings on Elasticity is the second part of a publication series that together will constitute an atlas of creative thinking. There are no guidelines for the form their contributions must take. It may be images, poems, essays, sketches on coasters, formulas, a piece of sculpture or a piece of string; the editors only ask that a contribution reflect the respondent's own field as well as his or her passion for the topic. |
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Symplectic Elasticity $105 This book explains the new solution methodology by discussing plane isotropic elasticity, multiple layered plate, anisotropic elasticity, sectorial plate and thin plate bending problems in detail. A number of existing problems without analytical solutions within the framework of classical approaches are solved analytically using this symplectic approach. Symplectic methodologies can be applied not only to problems in elasticity, but also to other solid mechanics problems. In addition, it can also be extended to various engineering mechanics and mathematical physics fields, such as vibration, wave propagation, control theory, electromagnetism and quantum mechanics. |